“Yes, my heart, this is how it is, ww. It is an old sorcerer whose soul changes with the passage of time. It is open to the whole world and closed as it enchants and inspires fear. There is no other city like it in the world.” Mahi Bingbing “Beyond the Walls of Marrakesh”
Marrakesh may not be the capital of the Kingdom of Morocco, but it definitely is its heart, it always enjoyed this unique status, and one which continues today. Eccentric, bright, with ocher-terracotta walls, as if glowing in the sun, this charming pink-red city is an oriental fairy tale, the pearl of the South. In antiquity, it was considered the gate of the world and was a guiding star for wandering caravan merchants. Did you know that the correct way to say it is to place the stress on the second syllable – MarrAkesh. “Land of God” or “Fortified” – so it was called by the Berber conquerors from the Almoravid tribe. Why do we mispronounce the word then? Blame French for it. Morocco was under the protectorate of France from 1912 to 1956 – in the French version, it’s MarrakEch. Let’s begin with a walk around the Old City – the Medina
Jemaa el Fnaa is a UNESCO heritage site and is featured in all guidebooks. However, rarely does anyone mention its name in translation – “Square of the Dead”. The severed heads of executed criminals were exhibited here. Today you won’t see such gloomy spectacles. Under the cover of darkness, snake charmers (please don’t touch their snakes!), musicians, magot monkey trainers, charlatan magicians and professional fortune tellers, beggars, smiling tooth pullers with their pliers and a set of already removed trophies showcased for proof – the fact is that there is only one dentist for several thousand inhabitants in the city. For some reason central Marrakesh never became famous for its dentists… Watch out for Zherrabs – water carriers in bright suits and round hats with decorative tassels. If you see a water carrier in Morocco, you can be sure that your cherished wish will come true. Their water in a copper glass may be served only to muslims.
For a thrilling touristic experience it’s worth getting lost in the endless rows of stalls and shops. It really is an experience to bargain a bit! It would be a pity to leave without a pair of beautiful slippers made of the softest leather of any colour you like, bright artsy Berber jewelry made of silver and semi-precious stones, some herbs and potions, mountains of colourful ceramics, dried fruits, or a freshly squeezed juice from exotic fruits. You can’t miss to try a smoothie with an avocado, milk and date or pomegranate juice – delicious!
Dar Cherifa 8, derb Cherfa Lakbir, Quartier Mouassine, Medina Are you a coffee drinker by any chance? Escape the chaos and find your way from the labyrinths of market streets through an inconspicuous door and sip one of their strong coffees on the terrace in this ancient riad. There is this invigorating and fiery aftertaste… Ask to fill the coffee with spices. There is also delicious food should you feel peckish.
Villa & Jardin Majorelle Rue Yves St Laurent Marrakesh has always been a haven for romantics, lovers and connoisseurs of the East, adventurers and of course cosmopolitans. French artist Jacques Majorelle belonged to all of the above categories. He became the pioneer of artistic and bohemian Marrakech.
Having arrived to be treated for tuberculosis, he remained here for the rest of his life, marvelling at the riot of colours in this, as he put it, earthly version of the Gardens of Eden.
He decorated his house in the style of Henri Matisse and invented an intense indigo-based blue hue that provided a stunning contrast to the miracle garden he had created. He painted the front door himself, designed the patterns for the local Zellige tiles and in this manner he brought to life the entire interior, using predominantly blue, green and dark red. Majorelle’s idea was to paint the house in bright blue (the colour representing the Tuareg ethnic group), which would contrast sharply with the lush vegetation of the garden. The colour was called “majorelle blue”. The Moorish-style villa was named “Bou Safsaf” by the artist.
Find peace in his impressive garden with a colossal collection of cacti, bougainvillea, Moroccan arborvitae and sweet-smelling hibiscus.
But for the bohemians of the whole world, Marrakesh became a truly fashionable hangout with the advent of Yves Saint Laurent, followed by Paul and Talita Getty.
Andy Warhol, Mick Jagger, Lulu de la Falaise, Fernando Sanchez and Betty Catru. Today, the city has a huge number of villas owned by a newer generation of stars: Leonardo Di Caprio, Alain Delon, Madonna, Brad Pitta and Naomi Campbell have all purchased luxurious plots of paradise here.
Yves Saint Laurent Museum Le Musée Yves Saint-Laurent de Marrakech
In 2017, the museum was opened by Princess Lalla Salma of Morocco and Betty Katru, the designer’s muse, who inspired him to create his “Le Smoking” collection. “Marrakesh taught me colour,” Yves Saint Laurent confessed about his love for the city. – In Morocco, I found that I especially love colour and its manifestations in Zellige mosaics and wood carvings, on caftans and djellaba capes. I am indebted to this country for my audacity in my work … ”
The ashes of Yves Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, were dispersed according to his will in the garden of his villa.
Once you are done walking and want to go to a hotel or riad (garden), get on a caleche (carriage), after haggling a little for the price, and go for a ride in the evening city. You will begin by exploring the city fortress wall, 10 km long and 9 m high, built in the beginning of the XII century. And there are places in Marrakesh that are legendary. One of them is the Koutoubia Mosque, built in 1158: the Mosque of booksellers, the pinnacle of the architecture of its era, made in the classical Moorish style. This is the main attraction of the city, which can be seen first when approaching Marrakech. Koutoubia is also the largest mosque in all of Africa, accommodating up to 20 thousand people. Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter, but a door is open in one of the walls through which you can look inside.
It is worth mentioning a curious law in the city: not a single building in the city may exceed the height of a palm tree and each building must be lower than the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque! This law is still strictly observed.
Take a break:
Atay Cafe
(Go up to level 5!) 62, rue Amsefah Sidi Abdelaziz, Medina You must go here for the atmosphere and the best Moroccan teas at sunset for stunning views of the Atlas Mountains. There is a distinct boho style. In Moroccan Atay means “tea” and to enjoy your tea while sitting on the terrace with a panoramic view is a delight!
As you regained all your energy you can visit: Bahia Palace
Rue Riad Zitoun El Jedid One of the main and most beautiful landmarks of Marrakesh is the Bahia Palace (“Palace of the Beauty”) located in the medina, a masterpiece of lavishing Moroccan architecture (19 cent.) in the Arab-Andalusian style. Bahia has a magnificent garden with a patio, a large number of chambers, decorated with stucco, the ornate iron lamp features, the colourful tiles, and carved and painted wooden ceilings.
Badia Palace (El Badi)
You simply must go to this melancholy place: the ruins of the former luxurious palace of Badia (translated as “Incomparable”), which was built for a quarter of a century at colossal funds. It might be interesting to see the contrast with the Badia Palace. Imagine that walls and ceilings were once inlaid with Sudanese gold, Carrara marble, Irish granite, alabaster stucco, magnificent mosaics, cedar trim – the palace building was consisted of 360 chambers with central heating! In the courtyard there was a colossal swimming pool, marvelous gardens. The “incomparable” palace could only be compared with the wonderful Alhambra, which inspired the builders. As a result, the palace, built in 1603, stood for a little over 20 years. Make sure to go to the top of the remaining walls and think of the majestic past…
And a break again at:
Cozybar
47 Place des Ferblantiers Take a breath in this pretty cafe, from where you can look at the walls of the Badia Palace and the storks living in it almost from a bird’s eye view.
NB dresscode! Dressing in Morocco should be in accordance with the traditions of a Muslim country. So think twice to put your mini…It is also worth considering that women wearing white clothes as mourning tribute. Said this I recommend to chose the clothes carefully, feel happy, dress with a local touch and think in colours!
Where to stay:
Mamounia (La Mamounia)
Ave Bab Jedid, Medina
A royally luxurious palace-hotel with countless stories about famous guests. It was built in the 1920s on the site of gardens that have existed here since the 18th century and were founded by the order of the Alawite Sultan Mohammad bin Abdallah al-Khatib as a wedding gift to his son Mamun. Who has been here before you? Read like a celebrities’ mantra: Audrey Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin, Omar Sharif, Alfred Hitchcock (here he also filmed several scenes for his film The Man Who Knew Too Much), Sophia Loren, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Charles Aznavour, Julio Iglesias, Sean Connery, Catherine Deneuve, Monica Bellucci, Rolling Stones. Let’s not forget the crowned heads, well I simply mention Elizabeth II and King Charles III. Churchill spent 20 years here, calling Marrakesh his favorite city. It was Churchill who persuaded the hotel manager to order a ceiling painting from Majorelle, and this man-made miracle has been decorating the hotel since 1946.
Hotel La Sultana
403 Rue de la Kasbah, Medina
A wonderful courtyard with a restaurant incl. an absolutely magical menu. Spa, swimming pool, very atmospheric! Riads are typical Moroccan houses in the medina with a patio. In fact, these are the same private hotels, however much more modest than those listed above, but more authentic
Riad Riad El Fenn
Derb Moulay Abdallah Ben Hezzian, Medina Feel the pulse of the city, being in another dimension, in a fabulous old city.
Riad Riad Enija
Derb Masfioui, Medina
Spa, luxury, incredibly comfortable beds and maisons in Arabic style. There will be something to talk about.
Hammams are places of “public retreat” where natural cosmetics, scrubs and professional massages await you. Locals like to go to the hammam on Thursday and Friday.
On all other days, try to go to the oldest in the city (built in 1572) Mouassine Hammam (Rue Sidi el Yamani), or Assal Hammam (Assouel Baroudienne DB Hadj Khadir 23), or La Sultana Hammam (403 rue de la Kasbah) – in one of them you will definitely find an excellent massage and magnificent scrubs with clay! Why not?!
For breakfast, take fragrant pancakes – baghrir, cooked without eggs, on semolina, generously poured with warm honey and butter sauce! Msemmen are also very tasty – puff cakes that will be offered to you with jams of all kinds, or kharsha – a simple cake made from semolina.
Kebabs
You will lick your fingers, but please do not lick the fingers of your left hand and do not eat with it, for this hand is considered unclean according to Islamic custom. And don’t be surprised that Arabs often eat with their right hand instead of fork.
Tagines
There are no better tajines than in Marrakech in all of Morocco: at least seven vegetables, meat, olives, fruits and dried fruits, which are languishing for a long time in clay cone-shaped pots with couscous (from semolina) – a truly unforgettable pleasure Pardon! Do not look for vegetarians in Morocco (except tourists) – they do not seem to be here. Berber tagines are a must try in a real Berber home while traveling through the Atlas Mountains.
Do you want to make a small victory over yourself? Embark on a journey through the Atlas Mountains in the wake of many brave men like Richard Branson. But be sure to trust an experienced guide. You can’t get it dirt cheap and you can’t get it for a song otherwise the trip through the mountains will turn into hell and hassle.
When we arrived in Imlil, the last Berber village on the way to the highest mountain in North Africa – Toubkal, a Berber guide, Rashid Ait Ifraden was waiting for our group. He is a pro climbing specialist with a passion to show his little planet. He has a whole team of trained climbers, with whom we set out on the winding mountain paths on mules. Once you find yourself at the goal of the ascent, in a lovely Berber village, on a huge panoramic terrace, the Berber family will welcome you as dear guests. This extraordinary dinner you will remember for a lifetime. atlastrekaventure.com
Kasbah Tamadot
Buy as a gift or for yourself
Hand-knotted lint-free Berber carpet made of natural zarbiya camel or sheep wool, with a choice of exquisite ornaments and floral motifs.
Babushi – colorful Moroccan leather slippers with suede insoles.
Black soap, expensive essential oils, oil perfumes from roses and rosewood, scrubs from Moroccan Ghassoul or Rassoul clay.
Argan oil – an elixir of youth and a fantastic remedy with healing qualities, is produced from rare argan, or iron, trees. Look for trusted brands, ask the porter of your hotel (unfortunately, they offer a lot of fakes on the bitch). Ideally, you need to go to the cooperative of its producers for oil: lunch, Moroccan tea and obviously excellent quality. The game is worth the candle. (I love to pick this expression from Michel de Montaigne!) so watch out for:
Skillfully made, decorated metal lanterns like in Badia palace
Berber silver jewelry – bright, large, perfectly combined with the most exquisite couture dress, complementing it with its deliberate rudeness and pretentiousness. And bargain until the loss of momentum! Western-influenced local designers – surprise your friends on the beach in Saint-Tropez and Sardinia with a stunning Berber djellaba or Moroccan takchita.
Buy hand-made candles of intricate design with a wonderful aroma, as it should be in a real oriental fairy tale: lavender, rose, jasmine, leather, wood, spices, fruits of all varieties.
Learn at least these three words in Arabic: naam (yes), laa (no) and sil’ya (thank you) and discover how knowledge of a foreign language blows up all borders!
In a nutshell – why Marrakech?
The new bible – Instagram – loves unforgettable views and camel caravans.
The feeling that you are traveling in time and suddenly found yourself in a medieval oriental city.
Night in Marrakesh may never come, because you go to the largest nightclub on the African mainland “Le Pacha”!
I think you feel the beat of the city which stimulates all senses at once. And I really hope you heard my voice in a choir of a million other voices praising the incredible fairy tale of Marrakesh.
