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    You are at:Home»Events»Fashion Week»Edward Crutchley AW23
    Fashion Week

    Edward Crutchley AW23

    23 February 202311 Mins Read
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    Look One:
    Round neck oversized coat and surcote* in lichen textured wool jacquard
    Platform shoes in leather

    Edward Crutchley AW23 1
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *A surcote is an outer garment dating back to the Middle Ages. Commonly worn by soldiers on the battlefield, this long cloak or cape worn over metal armour would help to prevent heat stroke. Its name derives from French meaning “over the coat”. During the same period, ankle and floor-length dresses were common for women, often paired with a chemise or smock in fine linen. The duality of the longer silhouette—worn both on the battlefield and in the bedroom—reflects Crutchley’s fluid approach to gender binaries.

    Look Two:
    Beanie
    Silk taffeta coif*
    Printed silk scarf
    Organic cotton hoodie
    Lichen textured wool jacquard coat
    Bedford cord cotton v neck top and matching shorts
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 2
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *Although it brings to mind the traditional habit of Catholic nuns, coifs date back to the 10th century and were originally not specific to religious dress. Here, Crutchley pairs the close-fitting cap with the more archetypal bucket hat or beanie.

    Look Three:
    Funnel neck parka in recycled polyester
    Sweater dress in lichen texture angora blend jacquard
    Elasticated waist maxi skirt in melange wool tailoring
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 3
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Four:
    Round neck long line jacket in wool mohair tailoring
    Lichen texture angora blend knitted jacquard mini sweater and matching midi skirt
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 4
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Five:
    Bob* in recycled polyester with contrast under brim
    Coif in recycled polyester
    Oversized coat in melange wool
    Blouson and elasticated pants in recycled polyester
    Platform shoes in leather

    Edward Crutchley AW23 5
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *A hat with a narrow, downward-sloping brim that is more commonly known as a bucket hat.

    Look Six:
    Cartoon* print silk surcote
    Merino rollneck sweater with plated lurex detailing
    Elasticated waist maxi length skirt in wool mohair tailoring
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 6
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *Each of the six characters that appear across the collection draw their inspiration from the curious woodcuts that feature in illustrator Richard Breton’s The Drolatic Dreams of Pantagruel. Crutchley looked to the proto colouring book (released in 1565) and reimaged the figures in a more cartoonish style.

    Look Seven:
    Beanie
    Coif in grey melange wool tailoring
    Printed silk scarf
    Blouson and drawstring low rise pants in Bedford cord
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 7
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Eight:
    Bob
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Oversized wool coat
    Cartoon angora mix jacquard dress
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 8
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Nine:
    Beanie
    Silk scarf
    Cartoon jacquard blanket
    Over shirt and elasticated waist shorts in cotton twill
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 9
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Ten:
    Beanie in technical wool blend
    Silk taffeta coif
    Printed silk scarf
    Cartoon jacquard sweater vest in merino
    Low rise drawstring pants and elasticated waist midi skirt in wool and mohair tailoring
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 10
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Eleven:
    Beanie in technical wool blend
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Drop lapel tailored wool coat
    Oversized sweater and midi skirt in lichen texture merino jacquard
    Platform shoes in leather

    Edward Crutchley AW23 11
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Twelve:
    Fleece liripipe hat
    Hand crocheted Clapdale* wool jumper
    Elasticated waist recycled polyester pants
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 12
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *Clapdale wool is a yarn spun from all breeds of sheep who live on two farms in Clapham, North Yorkshire. As part of the Clapdale Wool Project, Glencroft purchased fleeces from local farms within a five-mile radius. The wool was then scoured, processed and spun in a variety of local factories and mills in Yorkshire never travelling further than 50 miles from source.

    Look Thirteen:
    Beanie in technical wool blend
    Coif in melange wool tailoring
    Printed silk scarf
    Oversized blouson, drawstring low rise pants and V-neck oversized coat in wool cartoon jacquard
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 13
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Fourteen:
    Drop lapel jacket in melange wool tailoring
    V-neck oversized jacket and elasticated waist maxi skirt in melange wool tailoring
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 14
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Fifteen:
    Fleece liripipe hat
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Cartoon jacquard wrapped blanket
    Drop lapel jacket, low rise drawstring pants and platform shoes in quartered* patchwork wool tailoring

    Edward Crutchley AW23 15
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *In heraldry, quartering is a method of joining several different coats of arms together in one single shield. The same method has been used to pair four traditional British suiting patterns: a Prince of Wales check, houndstooth, hopsack and gingham.

    Look Sixteen:
    Drop lapel jacket, oversized V-neck jacket, low-rise drawstring pants and platform shoes in quartered patchwork wool

    Edward Crutchley AW23 16
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Seventeen:
    Bob
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Round neck jacket and mini skirt in quartered patchwork wool tailoring
    Platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 17
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Eighteen:
    Bob in quartered patchwork
    Coif in quartered patchwork taffeta
    Overshirt and low-rise drawstring pants in crinkle taffeta
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 18
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Nineteen:
    Layered ruffle dress in silk taffeta
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 19
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Twenty:
    Bob in silk taffeta
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Track top and ruffle pants* in silk taffeta
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 20
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *The ruffles of these pants were directly influenced by an all-white ensemble dated 1523 on Plate 61 of Matthaeus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg’s The Book of Clothes. The collection of illustrations (like early selfies) is considered one of the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history.|

    Look Twenty-one:
    Codpiece bra by GAHM*
    Round neck oversized wool coat
    Low rise drawstring pants in wool mohair tailoring
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 21
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *GAHM was founded by multidisciplinary artist and designer Avleen Kaur in 2022. Kaur’s work brings together the tradition of heavy jewellery adornment from her native India with tropes of S&M culture.

    Look Twenty-two:
    Bob
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Dropped shoulder biker jacket in waxed leather
    Cashmere rib crop top
    Cod piece thong in leather by GAHM
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 22
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    Look Twenty-three:
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Silk jersey lichen print backless dress and double drape taffeta belt dress by Dem the First*
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 23
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    *Cypriot born Dem the First is a BFC scholar and final year womenswear student at Central Saint Martins. In 2022 Crutchley met the designer through a BFC initiative and was impressed with his talent for drape. ‘I have never really worked with a designer in this way before. Edward pushed and allowed me to evolve in my own way yet within his eutopia. The process has been so full of trust and freedom that it gave me equal pleasure as when I am making things for myself,’ Dem says.

    Look Twenty-four:
    Coif in silk taffeta
    Jersey trained dress and taffeta draped coat by Dem the First
    Leather platform boots

    Edward Crutchley AW23 24
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    ‘Orifice’ by STUDIO_ edwardlorenz

    For the third site-and-time-specific olfactory artwork presented alongside Edward Crutchley’s collection, ORIFICE is an expansion of the themes from Autumn/Winter 2023: the study of hardness and softness, of darkness and light, and of the early Medieval period.

    Edward Crutchley AW23 25
    Lilian Baylis Theatre, London 17th February 2023. Edward Crutchley presents his Autumn Winter Designs during London Fashion Week. ©Old Ogunshakin/ Chris Yates Media

    There are two distinct scent profiles to this work, two significantly different experiences that clash, harking back to the dualities present in Crutchley’s work: the sacred and the profane, the gauche and the urbane.

    Part one is built around orris — a raw material used frequently in old perfumery and still used in trace amounts in the most luxurious perfumes. It takes at least 7 years to produce 1kg: 3 years to grow the bulb of the Iris germanica underground, and 4 years to age and ferment it to its distinctive lipstick-like smell.

    Part two is built around oud — a historically Eastern and Middle Eastern material used in perfumery that has now only come into fashion in the West. Another extremely labour and time intensive material, oud is a resinous exude from a small pairing of species of trees that are the result of an immune response to a fungal infection. The best ouds take at minimum 30 years to age within a tree.

    SHOW CREDITS

    Styling: Julian Ganio
    Casting: Lucy Rogers
    Production: Antony Waller
    Press Release: Dal Chodha
    Shoes: Roker
    Jewellery and Head Pieces: Victoria Rickard and Gianluigi Zoccheddu
    Movement Direction: Brieuc Breitenstein
    Fragrance Design: Edward Lorenz
    Hair: Richard Phillipart at Gary Represents sponsored by My Organics
    Make-up: Michelle Cadillo sponsored by Glow Recipe and Trace Publicity
    Nails: Marie Louise Coster at Nylon Artists using Jessica
    Lighting Design and Videography: Hydra Design
    Runway Photographer: Chris Yates
    Backstage and Look-book Photography: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa
    Graphic and Textile Design: James Bosely Studio
    Character Design: Liklik
    Embroidery: The London Embroidery Studio
    Wovens Production: TRUK 1609
    Crochet: Shannon Hyland
    Studio Team: Karen Coughlan, Aaron DeVallier, Demetris Handjimichael, Ava Coffen, Aaron James Ford, Hilary Watts, Willow Prieto-Johnson, Lucas Chaillot, Oliver Julius Ross, Mitja Olenik.

    AW23 Edward Crutchley Edward Crutchley AW23

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