The beauty of this look is the freedom and simplicity in the styling.
- Begin by working on your interior shape. Start at the nape and work each subsequent panel with a short-to-long cutting angle to create a shorter area internally, while keeping some length on the exterior.
- Create a new longer guide and move on to the top section, cut a square centre profile to use as a guide to create squareness within the flattest part of the top of the head. Use the corners of your box to proceed cutting the top sides with a round cutting line to reduce weight.
- Follow by using your guide from the top side sections to start working on a concave layer that, while reducing internal weight, will also keep the external shape long and full.
- Finally, once the entire internal shape has been created, work on the exterior lengths, with texturising techniques such as point cutting, chipping and slicing.
- Cut the fringe area with enough elevation to create some texture, while keeping a strong curved structure on the line.
- Prep the hair with mousse and a conditioning agent to achieve volume through the root area and a natural structure through the rest of the hair.
- Diffuse-dry hair from the ends to the roots, allowing for the natural fall and putting the head upside down for maximum volume.
- To finish, tong random sections to enhance some of the texture and create harmony throughout the shape and lengths.
COLOUR
Taking inspiration from a style of Italian art, Chiaroscuro, the colour transcends from dark to light utilising the same tonal quality creating shadows and light.
Details: Natural level 6/0
Texture – medium
Density – high
Porosity – slightly porous
Prep: Blondor Cream + 20vol/6% 1-1.5 ratio
Formula 1 – Earth Brown Colour Touch 25g 7/73 + 5g 6/47 + 4% mixed 1-1.5 ratio
Formula 2 – Soft Clay Colour Touch 20g 9/73 + 5g 6/47 + 4% mixed 1-2 ratio
- Create a parting at the natural fall from the hairline to the nape, from the crown area to the ear and subdivide on both sides to give four sections.
- Starting at the nape area, take 2-3cm slice and create a textured weave. Apply formula 1 with a freehand blending technique approx. 3-4 inches away from the natural root area. Work in the same way until the low crown area is reached on both sides.
- From the low crown, work with slices and apply formula 1 with a V-shape application and isolate all sections with meche.
- Progress onto the side section and take a textured weave. Apply formula 1 with a freehand blending technique approx. 3-4 inches away from the natural root area. Continue working in the same way to the high recession area.
- From the high recession area, take diagonal forward slices working with the same technique. Repeat on the other side. Process for up to 40 minutes, rinse and remove.
Toning technique on pre-shampooed hair - Create a parting at the natural fall from the hairline to the crown area, then from the crown to the ear subdivide on both side, from the nape subdivide into two.
TOP TIP: for the technique work with two formals, work with same tome from toots to ends but change the level (ideally 2/3 shades difference.) - Starting at the nape, take 1-2cm alternate horizonal slices and apply formula 1 to the roots, melting the product through the mid-lengths with fingers. From the mid-length apply formula 2 melting the two formulas together. Depending on the hair length leave the last 3-4cm uncoloured. Repeat the same technique until both the back sections are complete.
- Within the remaining two sections take horizontal slices up towards the profile, working with the same technique. Once complete repeat on opposite side. Develop visually and at the last 2-3 minutes, smudge the product through the ends. Rinse and remove.
