GUILTY IS A FALL/WINTER 2022/23 COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE WORK AND MATER IALS OF MAR ITIME INDUSTRY, AND GU IDED BY LOGISTICS AND LUST.
A port is a place of risk, powered by seen and unseen forms of physical work. Confronting nature and technology, it is a point of transference where tenacious tools and rugged systems of signs and codes form a fabric of protection against harsh conditions – environmental and human. Port cities are also promiscuous, hubs for trade where hedonism is explored in its darker forms on seedy stretches of red-lit streets. We return from sea hungry and wanting, seeking connection and exchange – of money, goods, influences, fluids. Containers arrive on vessels laden with product and power, perforating borders and penetrating culture. Ports are gateways that open onto to the world and let the world inside you. The garments they inspire must safeguard and arouse.
Bright “safety” yellow appears on balaclavas, “lifeguard” hats, knit sweaters, and rubber outerwear. Yellow roars “search and rescue” through a shearling-collared bomber. “Hazard” iconography brings heavy industry and lab graphics to printed tops and gloves of various lengths and resilience in leather, nylon, and cotton. Bold geometries intersect with 032c logos on sheer black evening wear – obscuring what dazzles below. Skin-tight opalines cover arms and legs in iridescent oil-slick: post-industrial mermaid’s tales that at once warn and beckon, attract and resist. On board, above deck: a silken pink rouched blouse, light tops in metallic viscose in silver and purple; below: miniskirts and sets in strategically cut patchwork denim. Black leather contrasts with rippling, Medusa-like sheers, caught in a woven garter-inspired harness. Silver “piercing” sets designed for clothing and a rubberized leather “captain’s” cap transport us to libidinal harbors.
GUILTY is a fatal fascination with the sleazy part of town. It is material protection for life’s seasicknesses and wreckages, and equipment for its biggest catches. GUILTY is luxury weather-proofing that is impermeable to water but porous to experience and longing. Through womenswear, menswear, and unisex ready-to-wear, GUILTY considers global networks of physical and metaphorical trade – and the roles we all play within them.
Photography MICHAEL BAUMANN Stylist RASMUS BAUN BARTRAM Creative Director MARIA KOCH
