For his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Omar Mansoor brings khaddar from Kamalia to London Fashion Week with ‘The Living Loom’. This is Mansoor’s 21st appearance at London Fashion Week, and it begins with a simple piece of cloth — khaddar. Made from organic cotton and woven by hand on traditional looms, khaddar has a natural texture and feel. The small changes in the cloth are part of its beauty and show the hands that made it.
The khaddar comes from artisans in Kamalia, where the skill of making this cloth by hand has been passed down through generations. With The Living Loom, Mansoor brings this old tradition into modern fashion. The designs include jackets, coat dresses, A-line dresses and long dresses. Ivory and black keep the focus on the cloth, while some designs take inspiration from the simple shapes seen in Indus Valley pottery and other ancient objects.
Organic cotton and handwoven cloth are central to the work. Mansoor also wants to support the people who make the cloth and help keep these old skills alive. The story of the cloth begins in Kamalia and travels to New York and London. Along the way, khaddar carries a part of Pakistan’s history, culture and craft to new audiences.
The work also shows what can be made in Pakistan and gives Pakistani makers a place on the world fashion stage. Fashion can bring people and cultures closer. Through khaddar, Omar Mansoor highlights the long cultural ties between Pakistan and Britain. It is a simple example of how fashion can play a part in cultural diplomacy.
With The Living Loom, Mansoor brings a part of Pakistan to the world through fashion. Each piece carries the time, skill and care of the people who made the cloth. The story begins with the cloth — and before the cloth, the loom.
Photo Credits: Daniel Turbert @danielturbert
Organisers: @uainukcommunity @volkova_pfa
Producer: @volkova_aleksandra