As we move from the long lockdown of Winter to the promise of Spring, Altuzarra’s Spring Summer 2022 collection centers around interest in the natural world. “I have always been fascinated with Charles Freger’s book Wilder Mann, which documents the archetype of the savage—men and women dressed half-man, half-beast—as it appears in ritualistic festivals in which Nature is deified. In parallel, books filled with mythology, pagan celebrations, and centuries-old creatures, like The Odyssey by Homer, Silver in the Wood and Drowned Country by Emily Tesh, were very inspiring. I was interested in mythology, mystery, and ways in which this Magic seeps into our world,” said Altuzarra of the collection, which explores the vernal transition and the rituals that celebrate it, along with themes of nature, transformation and anticipation of change.
Marrying effortless sophistication with sensual ease, the collection speaks to an enduring desire for comfort, but also a yearning for soul and point of view.
Our ancestral relationship with the wild became a starting point for SS22. Dyes were procured from all-natural elements, including mineral, floral, and insect, bearing in mind a more raw, sustainable process. Bundle dying, a technique in which textiles are steamed with flowers to release pigment from flora to fabric, was used in collaboration with Waxflower Dye Works to create distinctive colors and shapes. Altuzarra’s signature Shibori tie-dye was revisited using natural pigments and age-old techniques.
Creating an emotional tension, Spring’s silhouettes juxtapose restraint and cocooning with fluidity and movement. Shapes are supple and relaxed, polished yet undone. Waistlines are cinched and manipulated with wraps, knots and ties to envelope the figure. Blouses, designed for day-to-night sensibility in both micro-pleated georgette and luxe lamé, are strung up with slender cords and Turkish knots. Power suiting, approached with a laid-back edge, features a small-shouldered, A-line jacket, balanced effortlessly against wide-leg pants. Soft knit separates are designed in long and lean silhouettes with mix-and-match ease. Dramatic proportions are explored in lightweight gauzes.
The celebration of women’s bodies, and the myths and mysteries associated with it, remains a focus of the collection. For Spring, Altuzarra interprets Minoan goddess sculptures through the medium of crochet. Meticulously crafted by hand, the crochet is spliced-knit onto bodices of cashmere sweaters and voluminous linens alike. The hand-touch is further extended to the show space, which is partially covered in crochet—a metaphor for the power of the homemade, as the craft literally takes over the space. Mythological themes continue with the introduction of the Beetle print—an artwork evolved from Fall’s instantly iconic moth motif. Associated with rebirth and regeneration, the beetle is immortalized in print, which is transferred to panels and then pleated to create organic, constantly rippling motion. Handbags, an increasingly important category for the brand, continue to evolve. This season Altuzarra introduces the Braid Bag, a new, distinct handbag shape that features multiple hand worked braids in supple Italian leather. Other finishing pieces in the collection include knotted mules, crochet belts, and Altuzarra’s signature Play bag. Espadrilles from Castañer are made by hand from natural materials, lending an organic touch. Altuzarra returns to New York Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2022, representing a reclamation of the brand’s heritage, as well as an exciting new era. “I am thrilled to be bringing our show back to New York this season. New York is my home, and this is my opportunity to celebrate the resilience and energy of the city. I have never felt prouder to be a New Yorker.”