By Dr Olga Roh
Royal Ascot is more than just a race – it’s a fashion institution, a social ritual, and a tradition going strong since 1711. Over three centuries later, it still pulls crowds with its mix of ceremony, style, and a splash of drama.
This year at Royal Ascot, tradition stayed solid but moved gently in the summer breeze. Among the colour, feathers, and carefully judged flamboyance, the long dress was definitely present – but alongside many other styles.
From the moment the gates opened on day one, it was clear Ascot’s guests knew the drill. In the Royal and Queen Anne Enclosures – where the dress code isn’t just a suggestion but taken seriously – floor-sweeping hems and tea-length dresses showed up in full force. Soft pastels, breathable silks, floral prints, and subtle shimmer – fashion that quietly impressed without shouting.
With the mercury climbing above 30 °C, practicality met poise. Floaty maxi dresses drifted across the lawns, their wearers staying both camera-ready and cool. This wasn’t beachwear pretending to be formal – it was Ascot-level glamour: gowns sculpted to flatter and tailored to move.
Daniel Fletcher, Ascot’s first-ever Creative Director, encouraged guests to express themselves – but only within tradition’s rules. The hats? Architectural feats – towering fascinators, rosette crowns, wide brims. The dresses? Balanced. No fancy dress distractions, no viral gimmicks, just confident, quiet style.
Royal guests like Zara Tindall, Princess Eugenie, and Queen Camilla led the way with modest, luxe fabrics. Influencers followed, pairing dresses with vintage gloves, mini fans, and parasols. The mood felt less like a race day and more like a modern take on Regency elegance.
💫 Extravagance, Yes – Outrage, No
Bold and extravagant still ruled. Final-day highlights featured sky-high hats and bright, adventurous outfits. Parasols, fans, sunglasses – part of the look, not just sun protection.
Under Fletcher’s watch, tradition met theatre. Guests pushed boundaries – but stayed inside the dress code. Think sequins, feathers, prints, sculptural headpieces. Flamboyant? Absolutely. Fancy dress? Never.
Have the “crazy” outfits increased?
- Not No big jump in wildness, but plenty of bold creativity on display.
- Bridgerton-style feathers, dramatic florals, structured trains, occasional sparkle – big on flair but
- Novelty costumes? Not this No cowboy hats or inflatable gimmicks – the 2024 TikTok crowd either stayed home or grew up.
There was plenty of drama in gowns, structure, and hats – but no surge in over-the-top costumes. The “crazy” factor stayed under control: flamboyant, yes; excessive, no.
And yes, dozens of impeccably styled long dresses were a daily sight – just as Ascot tradition expects. From royals to the style elite, the royal-worthy look stayed strong. Even in the heat, elegance didn’t break a sweat.
🎩 The Spirit of Ascot
The media zoomed in on refinement this year, skipping the usual tabloid chaos. But the spirit of Ascot is still alive and kicking. Some friends told me they even lost their hats on the way home – surely a sign.
By day, Ascot is a stage of elegance. Later on, when the champagne blurs and laughter grows loud, tradition loosens up. It dresses with restraint, but it never forgets how to have fun.
🏇 Ascot, of course, has been around long enough to outlive empires and outshine most calendars. It all began in 1711, when Queen Anne – clearly a woman of excellent priorities – decided the Berkshire countryside could use a racecourse. Three centuries later, it’s not just still going – it’s galloping along as the jewel of British social sport.
The Royal Enclosure came into being in the late 1800s, a velvet-roped sanctuary for the well-dressed and well-connected. Getting in isn’t just about pedigree – though that doesn’t hurt – it’s about obeying one of the most gloriously specific dress codes in the modern world. Hemlines, hat brims, sleeve lengths, even your socks if you’re a gentleman – all under regulation. It’s less a rulebook, more a style gospel.
And the rules evolve – slowly, but with purpose. You can now wear a jumpsuit, as long as it’s chic, tailored, and reaches the ankle. A trouser suit? Absolutely – if it’s matching, festive, and elegant enough to deserve a glass of champagne. Even a beautifully coordinated two-piece ensemble gets the royal nod – Ascot loves tradition, but it’s learning to love a great silhouette too.
Now, the hats. Oh, the hats. Their height and ambition can be traced back to Victorian times, when showing off your station meant wearing your millinery like a crown with wings. Fast forward to today, and hats are still the high priests of Ascot style – some flirt with the stratosphere, others just wink at it. Once upon a time, it was practically a rule to tilt your hat to the right – etiquette’s way of saying “I’ve arrived” at a rakish angle. But that’s history now. These days, the chocolate side is yours to choose – left or right, whatever flatters your cheekbones or confounds your admirers best.
And then there’s Thursday. The day. Ladies’ Day. The moment when style, spectacle, and a bit of sartorial sorcery converge under a hopefully blue sky. It’s not just a fashion show – it’s fashion theatre, and the dress code might as well be: look fabulous, but follow the rules while doing it. And yes, as Ascot veterans say: the horses come second to the hats and fashion.
But if there’s one moment in the week when tradition, theatre, and daring fashion reach their most spectacular crescendo, it’s Thursday – the day that turns Ascot into a stage like no other. And as long as I come to Ascot, Thursday will always be my day.
If you want an unapologetically grand excuse to wear something that defies gravity, there is only one day on the Ascot calendar that truly delivers: Thursday. Ladies’ Day. Though the name might suggest a female-only
affair, the truth is more nuanced – and more stylish. It’s the week’s golden centrepiece, crowned by the prestigious Gold Cup and swathed in ceremonial dazzle.
This year, Thursday shimmered under a merciless sun, parasols became prized possessions. But the dress code never faltered. On the lawns and grandstands, elegance stood its ground, heatwave or not.
Ladies’ Day isn’t just a day at the races – it’s a full-scale spectacle. The Met Gala with horses. Designers don’t hold back. Guests certainly don’t. And the outfits don’t whisper; they declare themselves, boldly and with intention. A riot of colour danced across the enclosures, but the real art was in the pairings: nude tones juxtaposed with bold blues, silks against lace, pastels offset by strong tailoring. Quiet and loud, balanced on a high-wire of sartorial flair.
The favourite outfits and hats colours this year?
Ladies’ Day 2025 delivered a masterclass in harmony – bold colours balanced by elegant head-turners, pastels paired with polished metallics, and statement hats complementing every look. It was proof that elegance isn’t just tradition – it’s a statement. Here are the standout colour combos and hat styles from this year’s Ladies’ Day:
Queen Camilla showed up in sage-green Dior – floaty coat‑dress, perfectly tailored, breezy yet regal. Her Philip Treacy hat? A floral cloud perched just right – not too high, not too shy. She carried a Lady Dior bag – yes, that Dior, in a nod to Diana – and wore a rotating gallery of royal brooches through the week: Cullinan V diamonds, an emerald cluster, and a $161K star pin on Thursday. Low‑key glitter, high‑key heritage.
And the pearls? Classic – because even in 33°C heat, the Queen knows how to sparkle without melting. Quintessentially: Dior, diamonds, Diana vibes – 10/10 for royal flair with a wink.
- Pastel pairings: Mint green, white & off white and baby blue, blush pink and buttermilk yellow were everywhere, often worn with solid block colours like royal blue or crimson for contrast.
- Coral & clean white: A perennial combo – bright coral florals softened with crisp white accents, perfect for a chic, summery look.
- Metallics & pastels: Futuristic silvers or golds blended with baby pink, blue or lemon hues – a modern twist on the classic garden palette.
- Fruit & floral themes: Think cherry, strawberry and watermelon motifs: playful yet elegant, and perfectly in sync with vibrant red and orange ensembles.
- Bold brights: Think hot pinks, Carmen scarlet red and black, vivid greens, vibrant blues – paired with artistic headpieces and statement accessories.
- Monochrome moments: Zara Tindall notably rocked a black-and-white ensemble with elegant gold shoe clips – a sophisticated take on classic
But the best-dressed list this year ran deep. Many guests came not just prepared – they came determined. From structured dresses in vivid jewel tones to delicate Regency-style gowns, the range was astonishing. But it all held together because of one unspoken rule: this isn’t costume. It’s character.
Now, let’s talk about other Ascot’s extras! If you’re lucky enough to be invited to lunch before the Royal Procession, the real prize isn’t the menu – it’s the location: Car Park 1. A grid of picnic plots passed down through families, some for generations. Think heirloom tablecloths, handwritten invitations, vintage crystal, and proper linen napkins – scenes that feel plucked from a modern Austen novel.
Ascot is a place THIS tailored, it’s easy to get lost. London is vast, but Ascot is not – and yet, friends vanish. Hats turn people into silhouettes. A well-cut dress and a wide brim can render someone unrecognisable. You wave, pause, doubt yourself. Familiarity floats just out of reach, hidden beneath peacock feathers or netted veils.
By mid-afternoon, Ascot begins to resemble a beach of guests fanning themselves, searching for shade, stilettos defeated by grass. The horses, technically the main attraction, pound past in a blur – but for many, the betting is a side note. Strategies abound, but most lose. It doesn’t matter.
By the way, should you feel parched, worry not – over 50,000 bottles of champagne are opened throughout the week, often before noon and always with cheer. And the most-ordered dishes in the Royal Enclosure? A classic fish plate. And strawberries. A lot of them! This is Ascot – elegance, always.
Oh, if I may say so – at Ascot, it’s always the ladies and their looks that take the lead. The horses may thunder past, but let’s be honest – it’s the hats and the fashion that steal the show, gloriously and unapologetically, for one unforgettable afternoon.
