Calvin Luo dived into the works of Helmut Newton to conceptualize his Fall/Winter 2022 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.
“Le Smoking”, one of the photographer’s most emblematic image, was taken in a dusty Parisian alleyway (rue Aubriot) in pure elegant simplicity that remains the epitome of chic to this day. It is documented that Newton asked Vikebe Knudsen (the model) to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the dandy, who “has no profession other than elegance”, according to Beaudelaire. Le Smoking would not only mark a shift in fashion but in power. In the words of Pierre Bergé“It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.”
Calvin asked himself what the same elegance and power would look like today. With his collection film titled “LE NOIR”, Calvin plumbs into “Le Smoking” almost half a century later and pays homage to Paris (again) whose iconic beauty has remained unchanged by the passing of time.
With a mainly black, white, and grey collection, CALVINLUO keeps faith with the emblematic image but introduces timely details that anchor his vision in modernity: Crisp and deconstructed tailoring, asymmetric construction patterns, his now signature significant metalware. And while le smoking (the tux) is not a groundbreaker nowadays, Calvin’s supplemental choices convey Newton’s rule breaking attitude: Gender fluid sport tanks, denim, masculine belts. His styling choices render his vision into the present: butterfly punk jewelry (a nod to the CALVINLUO SS22 collection), black lipstick, e-cigarettes, and a purposeful choice to pair the entire collection with a new signature high and lop top square toe sneaker.
Calvin’s love for Paris is no secret – tributes and homages are recurrent in his work – but this collection hits different. This is now the 5th season CALVINLUO shows digitally. His film “LE NOIR” transports the collection to a fabled Paris; wishful thinking that next season he will be back in person.
STARRING
Aniki Lin
Diarra Samb
Topsy
Yana Van Ginneken
Sherry Shi
Amam Abit
Grace Quaye
Eny Jaki
Katya Vladykina
Maja Mihelic
Ashton Day
Sokhne Niane
Isis Den Adel
Beyonce Ambrose
Priscilla Cheseaux
Wang Chenming
Naman
Daan Duez
Bangali Drammeh
Lucas Dermont
Ole Dautzenberg
FASHION COMMISSIONNER
Dora Fung
STYLIST
Jodie Barnes
CASTING DIRECTOR
David Chen
ORIGINAL SOUNDTRACK
DJ Cam
PRODUCER
Julie Gonssard
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Boris Abaza
STEADICAM OPERATOR
Mathieu Caudroy
STYLIST ASSISTANTS
Marco Ven
Joseph Ecorchard
Alexis Landolfi
SEAMSTRESSES
Louise Poet
Lucienne
MAKE UP ARTIST
Anthony Preel
MAKE UP ASSISTANTS
Azusa Kumakura
Marie Guillon
Yoriko Fujita
Hind Sousan
Yusaku Nakahara
MAKE UP AGENT
Matthieu Bourdet
HAIR STYLIST
Franziska Presche
HAIR STYLIST ASSISTANTS
Brandon Borowski
Attila Kenyeres
Myuko Nakae
Tsuyoshi Tamai
Yi-Han Jen
HAIR STYLIST AGENT
Ayesha Arefin
MANICURIST
Huberte Césarion
MANICURIST ASSISTANTS
Treacy Patnelli
Yana Marquise
Fabienne Obertan
Alexia Bensimon
MANICURIST AGENT
Marie-France Thavonekham
1st AC CAMERA 1
Malek Krimed
1st AC CAMERA 2
David Foquin
2nd AC CAMERA 1
Aurélie Temmerman
2nd AC CAMERA 2
Emilie Razai
DIT ESSAYS
Thomas Briant
DIT
Audrey Samson
KEY GRIP
Benjamin Renaud
GRIP
Benjamin Rame
LINE PRODUCER
Grégoire Ohnet
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
Audrey Carlos
PRODUCER ASSISTANT
Charlotte Ermine
1st AD
Lola Bernard
2nd AD
Lino Merival
LOCATION SCOUT
Dimitri Chalazonitis
ASSISTANT UNIT MANAGER
Clément Lepoix
WARDROBE TRUCK DRIVER
Pablo Mandel
RUNNERS
Valentin Achilli
Anne Hélène Kerner
Lise Jullien
Juliette Antor
Ugo Morel
DRIVERS
Maxime Bédue
Jim Thomasson
Pierre Boussiquet
Flavien Cheval
COVID NURSE
Anice Ferrah
FILM PRODUCTION
WOMANRAY
Marieke Tricoire
POST PRODUCTION
NIGHTSHIFT
HEAD OF POSTPRODUCTION
Olivia Farges
POSTPRODUCER
Camille Gérard
EDITOR
Benjamin Ricart
COLORIST
Maxime Mourey
© CALVIN LUO 2022