With this Spring-Summer 2027 collection, Hiroaki Sueyasu deliberately steps away from immediate cultural symbols. The all-over graphic prints and collaborations built on a dialogue of ideas give way to pattern-making and textile embellishment. Through this body of work, through the gesture of the hand and the particular way of approaching it , something long dormant within him finally surfaces.
“Looking back, KIDILL has existed for over twelve years now. And, to say it plainly, I finally feel ready to confront the very depth of clothing,” Sueyasu confides.
The pursuit of structure and materiality meets Sueyasu’s artisanal practice, giving rise to a singular radicality and unexpected forms. Jackets, trousers and shirts see their silhouettes continuously distorted and rippling, carried by a meticulous construction that conceals a multitude of darts.
The series of cracks running across the denim pieces and sweatshirts result from a process in which cutouts, assembled with nearly three hundred pins, are coated with multiple layers of crackle paint. Over time and with wear, this film fractures and peels, progressively revealing the badges and details hidden beneath its surface. More than the expression of a passing impulse, these garments carry within them a genuine temporal dimension.
The tartan, meanwhile, is recomposed into a patchwork in which the pattern is deliberately disjointed and enlarged far beyond its original scale. Folding back on itself, it introduces a second displacement at the heart of the silhouette. The shirts, T-shirts and denim pieces are born from a process in which sheets printed with graphics evoking flyers are coated in silicone before being applied directly onto the garment. Where sections lift away, another screen-print hidden beneath is revealed, giving rise to a layered construction.
The collection’s sole collaboration is with Juicy Couture. Drawing on the visual codes of early 2000s celebrity fashion rhinestones, sequins and wing motifs, this collaboration pushes these familiar elements to the extreme. Oversized hoodies are folded and reconstructed, creating an unexpected balance and a surprising coherence.
The collection’s title, “CHAOTIC DISCORD,” does not point to a vision of the contemporary world perceived as chaos.
For KIDILL, it is rather “a deliberate departure from what is considered legitimate or authentic. Put that way, it may sound reasonable, but I myself don’t really know whether this form, this state, is aesthetic,” Sueyasu admits, before adding: “Chaos, too, transforms with time. I don’t want to endorse the moment when yesterday’s chaos hardens into a ‘classic uniform’ and starts to look like an answer. I still want mystery and secrets to remain inside the clothing.”
Long fuelled by his original impulse and curiosity, the true face of KIDILL continues to renew itself through organic and spontaneous gestures.