There is an infinite quality to the ocean that seems reflective of the human soul. In its depths, bioluminescent organisms shimmer; pearlescent flashes are created to attract and repel prey. This illumination is self-made. In the gloom – as perhaps in human life – finding light from within is a form of survival.
‘Unfathomable Lights’ draws inspiration from these bottomless chasms. If the past two collections represented a departure from Eftychia’s original office-based workwear, AW22 can be seen as the third and final stage of this introspective exploration.
As part of this, the EFTYCHIA woman has been stripped back. There is a sense of returning – not to an old self, but to one’s self at the core. Make-up is clean and cold, hair is slick and sharp, there are no accessories, and men’s vintage shoes are worn, as they were in early collections: they are refined, timeless and unconventional – just like the EFTYCHIA woman.
As always, tailoring remains at the heart of the brand. There are more suits than in any other collection, and Karamolegkou plays with their form, evolving ideas around familiar and classic shapes. The classic tuxedo is developed so that slim strips of satin run down the lapels, around the collar, continuing and becoming the lining. This feature is also added to the long navy Glow Coat.
Oozing sensuality, a new extra slim-fitted jacket appears in seductive brown and rests against nude skin. This sensuality then continues throughout the collection: dresses are diagonally sliced and held together with mother of pearl buttons. As the light falls and the body moves, a sliver of skin is momentarily revealed. Satin and velvet slips in mid and long lengths can be unbuttoned all the way to the waist, flashing a satin insert, giving the false impression of an opening.
This illusionary aspect runs throughout ‘Unfathomable Lights’ as Karamolegkou plays with ideas around functionality. Her clothes are made to be lived in, but she points out that practicality does not need to compromise luxury. What looks like decorative strips of velvet on Cut Out suits and skirts, reveal deep pockets which seem to alter in colour with the light – a subtle reference to hidden depths.
The collection is largely built of dark blues and browns, intertwined with glimmers of sour yellow, cream, oyster and lustrous fabrics. In some trousers these slivers of colour appear as a stripe, running down the front, creating a more casual or sporty effect. On navy and light grey knitted ribbed tops, contrasting yellow and mint seem to shimmer as the body moves, almost becoming holographic in motion.
This combination of men’s heritage fabrics, with softer more elegant fabrics, is reflective of the EFTYCHIA woman’s natural ambiguity as she integrates traditionally masculine shapes with more feminine silhouettes.
SHOW CREDITS
Thanks to The British Fashion Council, the NewGen panel, Tito Ferreira, Lauren Van Meeuwen, Mia Caplan, Victoria Nelon.
Creative Director: Eftychia Karamolegkou
Styling: Alice Lefons
Casting Director: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Make Up: Artist Rebecca Wordingham using Epara Skincare and Saie Beauty
Hair: Adam Garland for Authentic Beauty Concept
Show Production: Blonstein
Music: Roniit
Photographer: Jessica Mahaffey
Casting Assistant: Marina Fairfax at Arqa Cast
Press Release: Elizabeth Gregory